NOC to Fontana Dam - The Entrance to the Smokies

Maybe it was the bacon cheeseburger talking but I didn't think the climb out of the NOC was that bad! When 2:20PM rolled around I knew I had to get going if I didn't want to be hiking in the dark. A couple hikers sitting by the Outfitter told me they heard it could take 6-8 hours. I'm learning that my perception of time, distance, and difficulty is not the same as a lot of the other hikers. Most of the hikers that I talked to were doing 8-12 miles a day which is will totally respectable but I'm learning to take all advice with a grain of salt. 

I felt great and moved up the mountain quickly. The first section was a relatively moderate gradient with lots of switch backs. The hardest part was the Jump-Up and the climb up Swim Bald. I still made good time and completed the 6.9 miles in exactly 3 hours, arriving at Sassafras Gap Shelter (AT mile 143.6) at 5:20PM. I kept hearing there was going to be a crowded of people at the shelter and they were right. When I got there all the good tenting spaces were taken but I was able to snag a spot in the shelter. I passed a lot of people on the climb up which I saw wander into camp while I was eating dinner, looking disheartened that there were no shelter or tenting spaces and would have to keep going to look for a spot to sleep. It was cold when I went to bed, but luckily no wind.

The guy setting up his sleeping bag next to mine asked if I had earplugs. When I said no he looked at me sympathetically and said "I snore". And snore he did, consistently throughout the night. I woke up at 6:10AM even though my alarm didn't go off. I was on the trail by 6:45 trying to get an early start on my longest mileage day so far. I thought the hardest part would be the first climb to Cheoah Bald, only 1.2 miles away and then be moderate the rest of the day. Famous last words.

The first climb had me sweating and my legs felt sluggish from the miles yesterday. I stopped to eat breakfast at the top and shed my jacket, gloves, and wool hat. I wasn't moving as fast as I had hoped, I arrived at Stecoah Gap around 10AM, only 6.6 miles into the day. I was hoping to get to Brown Fork Shelter, 9.1 miles in, by 11 but a little climb called Jacob's Ladder got in the way. Climbs with the word 'Ladder' in the name never lead to anything good. It was steep and just kept going, with 2 or 3 false flats. I had to stop to catch my breath every 10 to 15 steps. It was so steep at times that I had to raise my arms so high to plant my hiking poles for my next step that I could smell my 5 days of hiker stank radiating from me which made the experience that much more miserable. When I finally got to the top I waved goodbye to Jacob and his demoralizing ladder with my middle finger and charged down the other side of the mountain.

I made it to Brown Fork Gap Shelter by 11:15. I was feeling sluggish, tripping on roots and rocks, and my mood turned sour and I started cursing the trail. I finally came upon a water source, one of the few I had passed that morning. I dropped my pack and headed to the stream down a side trail about 100 yards away. When I walked back up to the trail where my pack was I felt a strong fatigue in my legs and I knew what was happening.

I had experienced this many times running, biking, and racing - I was bonking. I was dehydrated and hadn't eaten enough calories. I was so concerned about getting my miles in that I didn't pay attention to eating or drinking. I mixed an electrolyte packet into my water and downed it and then shoved some candy and beef jerky in my mouth and continued on my way. I felt better but my legs still felt zapped of energy going up every climb. At mile 14ish for the day I came to another road and sat down and ate lunch. By now the day was hot and I was hiking in tshirt and shorts. The rest helped and I kept thinking I was done climbing for the day. Rule on the AT - when in doubt there is always more up! I passed Cable Gap Shelter, 15.2 miles into the day, around 2PM. The last two bumps on the elevation map didn't seem like much but I was moving so slowly up hill that I thought I would never make it to Fontana. I kept reminding myself that if I made it to Fontana Dam that day I could take a full rest day on Saturday.

Finally, with 5 miles left the lake came into view. I was ecstatic but the downhill was becoming just as painful as the uphill. The descent was the last 4ish miles and went from 3,500' to 1,750'. The lake was getting closer and closer with every switch back but not fast enough. Finally I came to a parking lot with bathrooms and running water. I ran cold water on my face and looked in the mirror to find that I had gotten a nice sunburn. There was also a cute pup there that had followed a hiker down the last 4 miles of the trail. Big Lots, from Florida, was there playing with her. Mentally I thought I was done hiking for the day but I still had another 1.1 miles to go to the shelter. It was just after 5PM so the shuttle service and stores were closing and resupply and chores would have to wait until the following day.

I made it to the Fontana Hilton (nicknamed this because of the bathrooms and showers) and snagged a spot in the shelter. A big group was there - I ate some dinner, played with the dog who had continued following us to the shelter (who finally found her way back to her owner), and then went to the shower and stood under hot water.

I had no soap but it still felt great to rinse and change into clean-ish clothes. The group kept getting bigger, tons tented up the hill. I talked with some hikers who were asking about Drop Bear, from Australia, Crunchy, and some other hikers I had seen at the shelter the night before. It's kind of cool moving through the bubbles and meeting new hikers everyday. Everyone seems to be impressed by my mileage!

I also heard from Calves - J Biebs had caught up to him and Pige and they were all staying at the NOC. Someone brought down 6 large pizzas and sodas and s'more supplies and everyone enjoyed feasting on a second dinner. I hung out by the fire for a little but got chilly and retreated to the shelter around 9:15PM.

Even though I didn't have to hike on Saturday morning I still got up early to watch the sunrise. I got my resupply and laundry done in the morning while waiting for Meredith to arrive. I couldn't wait to enter the Smokies the next day, but definite took advantage of the rest day. I was also hope the weather report was wrong and we wouldn't get 3 days of rain!